Ready-made concrete tanks in multiple sizes in Saudi Arabia

Concrete tanks are not a single type. The choice depends on the size of the plot, the number of occupants, how water reaches the site and whether there is a suitable place for installation. That is why we start by understanding how the tank will be used before we talk about size.

Who needs a concrete tank

New villas need one to keep a safe reserve that covers the family when the water supply is interrupted. Palaces with more than one building, annexes and a large garden that uses irrigation water need one. So do residential buildings, commercial buildings and projects with many users. In some villas the solution is an underground tank for storage and a small roof tank for distribution, with a pump between them.

How the right size is decided

Size depends on the number of family members, daily consumption and whether there is a pool or garden. It also depends on how regularly water reaches the neighbourhood. We do not recommend a tank much larger than needed, because water that stands for a long time needs more care. Nor do we recommend a small tank that forces the family to refill it constantly.

If the plot is narrow, we suggest a long or square shape depending on the available space. What matters is that the tank keeps an inspection opening that is easy to reach for cleaning and maintenance, and that it sits a safe distance from drainage chambers and sewer lines. It is best placed where rainwater and yard washing water do not collect, with enough clearance around it for a maintenance worker and light equipment to reach it when needed.

Building a concrete water tank is precise structural work. The tank carries water pressure from inside and soil pressure from outside at the same time. Any weakness at a single stage appears later as cracks or seepage that are hard to treat once the tank is full.

The main steps

1. Location and design. The engineer places the tank away from drainage and designs the wall thickness and reinforcement according to the size and the nature of the soil.
2. Excavation and levelling the base. The site is excavated to the required dimensions with working space around the tank, then the base is compacted well.
3. Plain concrete blinding. A blinding layer under the base gives a level surface and stops soil mixing with the reinforced concrete.
4. Fixing the reinforcement. The steel is tied according to the drawings, leaving enough concrete cover to protect it from rust.
5. Formwork and casting the base and walls. Concrete suited to tanks is used with admixtures that reduce permeability, and it is vibrated well so no voids remain.
6. Treating construction joints. Waterstops are placed in the joints between base and walls, because this is the point most exposed to seepage.
7. Curing with water. The concrete is sprayed and covered so it does not dry too fast and crack, especially in summer.
8. Casting the roof and inspection opening. The roof is designed with a tightly sealed opening and protected ventilation openings.
9. Waterproofing, then the fill test. The tank is filled with water and its level and walls are monitored before backfilling and commissioning.

Points that cannot be compromised

The tank is not backfilled before the fill test confirms there is no seepage. Inlet and outlet pipes do not pass through the wall without puddle flanges or seals around them. The inner concrete surface is not left rough or full of voids, because it becomes a place where sediment collects. The floor should have a slight fall toward a point that makes emptying and cleaning easy.

At Yam Integrated Construction we follow every one of these steps under engineering supervision and send the client photos of the reinforcement before casting and of the fill test.

Water tank waterproofing is what protects the water from contamination and the concrete from damage. However good the concrete is, it has fine pores that water can seep through over time. That is why a tank needs different waterproofing layers, each with a specific job.

Internal waterproofing

This is the layer in direct contact with the water. It must be a material that is safe for drinking water and approved for that use. Among the best known are epoxy coatings made for potable water tanks and some types of flexible cementitious coatings. Before applying it, the surface is cleaned and any honeycombing or crack is treated, then the coating is applied at the thickness the manufacturer specifies.

External waterproofing

An underground tank is surrounded by soil, moisture and salts. It is therefore waterproofed on the outside with bituminous membranes or waterproof coatings suitable for buried elements. The waterproofing is protected with a layer before backfilling so it is not torn when the soil goes back in. This waterproofing stops groundwater and salts from entering the tank and protects the reinforcement.

Thermal insulation for roof tanks

A tank on the roof is exposed to the sun all day. Without thermal insulation the water heats up in summer and the concrete is affected by expansion and contraction. The solution is to cover the roof and outer walls with insulation boards such as XPS or with heat reflective layers, protected from UV. Thermal insulation also helps protect the waterproofing on the tank roof from cracking due to heat.

Good waterproofing starts from a good surface. If the material is applied over dust, moisture or weak areas, it will detach over time however good it is. That is why we give surface preparation enough time before any layer.

What to ask before waterproofing

• The name of the material used and whether it is approved for drinking water.
• How the surface is prepared before application.
• The number of coats and how corners and joints are treated.
• When the tank can be filled after waterproofing.

Many tanks in older villas run for years without anyone inspecting them. Over time the concrete wears, the waterproofing weakens and the steel starts to rust. Repairing a water tank at the right time saves you demolishing it and building a new one.

Signs of a problem

• A rising water bill with no clear reason, or the tank level dropping while the valves are closed.
• Damp or white salt deposits on walls or floors near the tank.
• A change in water colour, or a smell or sediment appearing after cleaning.
• Cracks or peeling in the internal waterproofing when the tank is opened.
• Rust stains on the underside of the roof or pieces of concrete falling away.

The correct repair steps

1. Emptying the tank completely and ventilating it before the technician enters.
2. Inspecting the walls, floor and roof and identifying the type of each defect.
3. Removing damaged old waterproofing and weak concrete down to a sound surface.
4. Cleaning rust from the reinforcement and coating it with a rust inhibitor.
5. Treating cracks by injection or with special repair materials depending on their condition.
6. Rebuilding the removed sections with a repair mortar suited to tanks.
7. Applying new internal waterproofing that is safe for drinking water.
8. Carrying out a fill test and monitoring before putting the tank back into service.

When repair is not enough

If the steel is corroded over wide areas, or the cracks are structural and run through all the walls, a new tank may be the better option. This decision needs an engineering inspection, not just a technician's opinion. Most importantly, waterproofing paint should never simply be applied over damaged concrete, because the problem will return quickly. Likewise, a crack should not be repaired from the inside only if its cause is soil movement or a leak from outside. Treatment starts by finding the cause and then repairing the effect.

At Yam Integrated Construction we provide a written report on the tank's condition after the inspection, with photos showing the damage. We then send a quotation that sets out the required work in detail.

Even the best tank needs regular cleaning. Sediment and sand that arrive with the water collect on the floor. Insects or dust may enter through an opening that is not sealed. Proper cleaning maintains water quality and extends the life of the internal waterproofing.

Cleaning and disinfection steps

1. Shutting off the inlet and emptying the tank with a submersible pump.
2. Removing sediment and silt from the floor by hand without scratching the waterproofing.
3. Washing the walls, roof and floor with water at a suitable pressure.
4. Disinfecting with a product approved for drinking water tanks, at the concentration the manufacturer specifies.
5. Rinsing well so no smell of the disinfectant remains.
6. Checking the waterproofing, openings and float valve during cleaning.
7. Sealing the opening tightly and then refilling.

Common cleaning mistakes

Using strong household cleaners or products not intended for drinking water damages the waterproofing and may leave a trace in the water. Using coarse metal brushes scratches the epoxy coating and opens a path for leaks. A worker entering the tank without enough ventilation puts their safety at risk. Leaving the tank open for a long time after washing lets dust back in.

What you can check yourself

• That the inspection cover is tight with no gaps around it.
• That the mesh on the ventilation openings is intact so insects cannot get in.
• That the float valve works properly and the tank does not overflow.
• That rainwater or washing water does not collect on the roof of an underground tank.
• The colour and smell of the water at the taps after each refill.

Maintenance after handover

After handing over a new or repaired tank, we give the client a written care schedule that suits how it is used. How often it needs cleaning depends on the quality of the incoming water, the neighbourhood and the amount of dust. We recommend inspecting the tank after severe sandstorms and after any excavation work nearby. Any change you notice in the water or the level deserves an early inspection before it turns into a bigger repair.

A concrete tank is affected by where it is built. A design that suits one region may need adjusting in another. That is why we always ask about the city and the nature of the soil before setting the specifications.

The Central Region

In Riyadh, Qassim, Al Kharj and Hail the heat is high, the air is dry and dust is frequent. In summer, concrete is best cast early in the morning or in the evening. Concrete here needs good water curing after casting so it does not crack. Roof tanks need thermal insulation to keep the water from heating up, and ventilation openings need mesh that keeps dust out.

The east and west coasts

In Jeddah, Dammam, Al Khobar, Jubail and Jazan, humidity is high and groundwater is close to the surface and often saline. This makes the external waterproofing of an underground tank more important than anywhere else. We choose salt resistant concrete and pay attention to the concrete cover over the steel so it does not rust early.

The southern highlands

In Abha, Khamis Mushait and Al Baha there is more rain and winters are cold. We design the tank roof with a fall that drains water and protect exposed pipes from the cold. We also take into account the rocky ground, which may need a different excavation method.

What affects cost

• The size and shape of the tank and whether it is underground or on the roof.
• Whether it is cast in place or precast, supplied and installed.
• The nature of the soil, how hard it is to excavate and whether there is groundwater.
• The type of internal and external waterproofing and the material specifications.
• How easy it is for equipment and the crane to reach the site.
• For repairs, the price depends on the extent of the damage and the work area.
• Additional work such as pumps, pipes and connections.

That is why an accurate price cannot be given before these details are known. A quotation that comes back with a quick figure, without a site visit or questions, often hides items that will appear later. It is better to compare quotations on the same specifications, not on the final figure alone.

If the tank is part of a villa under construction, it is best built alongside the structural works. Excavation, casting and waterproofing then follow one plan and one team. The chance of tank pipes clashing with foundations or drainage lines is reduced, and it is easier to fix the location of the pump room and the route of the lines to the roof tank from the start.

A tank is usually buried underground or hidden on the roof. That makes it hard for the client to judge its quality after handover. The answer is to choose a contractor who explains every step to you and documents it before it disappears under backfill or waterproofing.

Questions before signing

• Does the contractor's team visit the site and check the soil and the tank location.
• Who designs the reinforcement and the wall thickness.
• What type of concrete and admixtures are used.
• What the internal and external waterproofing materials are and whether they are approved for drinking water.
• Is a fill test carried out before backfilling and handover.
• Are photos of the steel and waterproofing sent before they are covered.

What a good quotation contains

A written quotation states the tank type and its internal dimensions clearly. It says whether it includes excavation, backfilling and removal of spoil. It names the concrete, steel and waterproofing specifications. It sets out what the handover includes, such as openings, an internal ladder, pipes and a float valve. It explains the payment method and the warranty details and what they cover. For repair work, the quotation should state the defects to be treated and the method used for each one.

Warning signs

A quotation that does not name the waterproofing type or just says waterproofing in general terms. A contractor who refuses a fill test or rushes the backfill. A price given without inspecting a site that needs excavation. These are signs worth stopping at before you sign.

How Yam Integrated Construction works

We start with a site visit to understand your water needs and the space available for installation. We then send a written quotation with the specifications and items. During the work, the project engineer follows every stage and we send you photos of the reinforcement, the waterproofing and the fill test. We use approved materials, and one team is responsible for the tank from excavation to handover. At the end you receive a written warranty documented in the contract.

We work from our head office in Riyadh and serve Jeddah, Makkah, Madinah, Dammam, Abha, Tabuk and the other cities of the Kingdom. You can contact us to arrange a site visit.

Choosing the tank capacity is one of the most important decisions in the project. A tank that is too small means constant water deliveries and annoying shortages at peak times. A tank that is too large takes up courtyard space, costs more and may hold water for a long time without it being renewed.

Factors that set the capacity

• Number of occupants in the home, and the expected number as the family grows or an annex is added.
• How water arrives, since a home on a reliable network differs from one that depends on water trucks.
• Extra uses such as garden irrigation, filling a pool, washing cars and outdoor majlis areas.
• Number of bathrooms and kitchens in the villa, annex and driver's quarters.
• Available space in the courtyard or under the car shade, and the excavation depth possible on site.

One tank or more

In some large villas and palaces it is better to split the capacity between two tanks or a tank with two chambers. This lets one chamber be cleaned while the other keeps working, so the home never loses water. It also makes it easier to separate drinking water from irrigation water in some projects.

Ground and roof tanks together

Most villas run on a large ground tank with a smaller roof tank. The ground tank stores the main volume and the roof tank gives the plumbing steady pressure. The roof tank size depends on the roof's load capacity, the number of floors and how the pump is set up.

How we set the capacity with you

During the site visit the engineer asks how your family uses water and inspects the site and available space. The engineer then proposes a suitable capacity and explains the reasons behind it. If the standard sizes do not suit your space, we design a custom size tank and show the difference between the two options in the written quotation.

We advise against basing the decision on price alone. Enlarging a tank after it is built costs far more than choosing the right capacity from the start.

Water quality and capacity

Water that sits for a long time in a large tank without being renewed can change in taste and collect sediment. So the capacity should match the family's actual consumption. If the home is left empty for long periods during holidays, we recommend a setup that makes it easy to drain and refresh part of the water. This also relates to how often the tank needs cleaning.

The tank's location matters as much as the quality of its construction. An excellent tank in the wrong place can be exposed to contamination, be hard to reach for cleaning or suffer from cars driving over it. That is why the engineer sets the location only after studying the whole courtyard.

What makes a good location

• A sufficient distance from the septic tank, inspection chambers and drainage pipe routes.
• A spot slightly raised or protected from rainwater and wash water collecting around it.
• Close to the villa entrance so the water truck can reach it without long hoses.
• Close to the pump room so pipes are short and pressure is better.
• Room to open the tank cover and climb in easily for cleaning and maintenance.

A tank under the driveway

If the tank sits under the car shade or a driveway, its roof needs a structural design that carries those loads. The access cover should stand slightly above ground level and seal tightly so wash water and oil cannot enter the tank.

Checking soil and groundwater

Before excavation the engineer checks the soil on site. In parts of Riyadh the ground is rocky and needs special excavation equipment. In coastal areas such as Jeddah, Dammam and Khobar the water table can be close to the surface, so the tank needs stronger external waterproofing and a check of the uplift force on it when empty.

Preparing the site before work starts

We agree with you on the access route for equipment and where excavated soil and materials will be placed. We protect nearby floors and boundary walls. If there are buried power or water lines in the courtyard, we locate their routes before digging so they are not damaged.

In existing villas we choose a location that avoids breaking finished work such as marble or landscaping wherever possible. If breaking out is unavoidable, the quotation states who reinstates it and with which material. You can learn more about courtyard preparation through our construction works service, which we carry out alongside tanks.

Access for maintenance

Leave a clear area around the tank opening without planters or fixed furniture. During cleaning the team needs space for equipment and for pumping out water. Do not cover the lid with a fixed floor finish that is hard to remove, because then every maintenance visit means breaking something.

Verbal promises about quality are not enough. Written specifications protect you and tell the contractor exactly what must be built. When comparing quotations, the specifications reveal the real difference between offers, even when the prices are close.

Concrete and steel

• The type of concrete, its strength, and confirmation that it is ready mix from an approved plant.
• The cement type that suits the soil and groundwater on site.
• Reinforcement bar sizes and their layout in the floor, walls and roof according to the drawing.
• The concrete cover over the steel to protect it from rust.
• The casting and vibration method, and how the concrete is cured with water after casting.

Waterproofing

• The type of internal waterproofing, the product name, and confirmation it is suitable for drinking water.
• The number of coats and how the surface is prepared beforehand.
• The type of external waterproofing for the walls and roof of a ground tank.
• Treatment of the joint between floor and walls with a waterstop.

Openings and fittings

• The access opening size, the cover type and a lock that prevents tampering.
• A vent with a mesh that keeps out insects and dust.
• The overflow pipe and where it discharges.
• A drain pipe for cleaning if it suits the site.
• An internal ladder in a non corroding material if the tank is deep.
• Pipe sleeves fixed in the wall during casting, not afterwards.

Testing and handover

The contract should state the fill test method and the observation period before backfilling and handover. It should also state who pays to fix any leak found during the test. This clause alone shows how confident a contractor is in their work.

At Yam Integrated Construction we write these specifications into the quotation item by item. If you have drawings from an engineering office, we follow them and review them with you before starting.

Roof tank specifications

If the project includes a roof tank, ask for its type, material and fixing method on the roof to be written down. The quotation should show the base the tank sits on, how its weight is spread across the roof and whether it has thermal insulation or a shade against the sun. It should also cover how it connects to the ground tank, the pump and the electric float switch.

The more precise the specifications, the fewer disputes during and after construction. Ask for a simple drawing with the quotation showing the tank dimensions and the positions of openings and pipes so you can review it before work begins.

A tank does not work on its own. Getting water to every tap in the home depends on the pump, the float, the pipes and the valves. Many complaints about weak or interrupted water come from the connections rather than the tank itself.

The right pump

The pump is chosen according to the number of floors, the pipe length and how many outlets run at the same time. An undersized pump gives low pressure on upper floors, while an oversized one uses more electricity and strains the plumbing. In some villas a constant pressure system is a better fit because it supplies water continuously without needing a large roof tank.

The pump room

• It should be shaded and ventilated, because summer heat in central Saudi Arabia shortens pump life.
• It should be raised off the ground with a drain so it does not flood if there is a leak.
• It should leave enough space for a technician during maintenance.
• It should have a dedicated electrical supply with suitable protection.

Floats

The float prevents the roof tank from overflowing and stops the pump when the ground tank runs low. An electric float that protects the pump from running dry is essential, because running a pump without water damages it quickly. We recommend checking floats regularly, as they are among the parts most prone to faults.

Pipes and valves

We use pipes suitable for drinking water, with a main valve where water enters the tank and another where it leaves. We add flexible connectors at the pump so vibration does not travel along the pipes. Every pipe that passes through the tank wall goes through a sleeve fixed during casting, sealed with a watertight compound.

Coordinating with other works

The pipe route from the tank to the home must agree with the courtyard, marble and landscaping works. New floors should never be broken out to run a forgotten pipe. So we draw the route before excavation and give you a photo of it once finished. If the villa has a pool, we separate its filling line from the house lines, and you can see how the two are coordinated on our pool design and construction page.

Pump maintenance

Listen to the pump from time to time. Loud noise, vibration or frequent stopping and starting are signs it needs checking. The cause is often air in the pipes, a small leak or a float that is not working properly.

After installation we give you a simple explanation of how to start and stop the pump and where every valve is. Knowing the main valve in particular saves a lot of water and damage if a sudden leak happens in the home.

Tank works carry risks that do not appear in most other building tasks. Deep excavation, working inside an enclosed space and handling disinfection and waterproofing products all need clear precautions. A responsible contractor explains these precautions before starting and leaves nothing to chance.

During excavation

• Fence the excavation with a clear barrier and keep children away from it.
• Support the sides of the pit if the soil is sandy or close to a boundary wall or building.
• Keep excavated soil away from the edge so it cannot fall on workers.
• Light the area in the evening if the pit stays open.

Working inside the tank

A tank is an enclosed space with little ventilation. Working inside during waterproofing or cleaning can expose a worker to product fumes or a lack of air. So the tank must be ventilated before anyone goes in, with an extraction fan running during the work. One worker always stays outside the opening to watch and stay in contact with the person inside.

Chemicals

Disinfection and waterproofing products need storage out of children's reach and away from direct sun. Workers wear gloves, a mask and goggles when using them. After disinfection the tank is rinsed thoroughly and is not returned to drinking water use until the product has fully cleared.

Electricity

No electrical tool is used inside the tank unless it is rated for wet locations. Power to the pumps is isolated before any work in the tank or pump room.

After handover

• A tight cover with a lock that children cannot open.
• A clear marker showing where the tank is, so nobody digs over it or places heavy loads on it unknowingly.
• Nobody goes down into the tank without another person outside.

At Yam Integrated Construction the engineer oversees these precautions at every stage. We coordinate working times with you so they do not clash with family movement in the courtyard.

During casting

Casting day needs space for the concrete truck and pump to move. We agree their parking position with you in advance, move private cars away and ask that children stay out of the courtyard throughout the work. We confirm the formwork is secure before casting so it cannot collapse under the weight of the concrete.

Safety is a shared responsibility between the team and the household, so we go through these points with you on the first day of work.

Tank defects usually hide under soil or beneath the waterproofing layer. That is why you should watch the work at every stage before it is covered. Some signs are obvious to any homeowner who visits the site regularly.

During construction

• Honeycombing in the concrete, seen as voids and exposed aggregate on the walls after the formwork is removed.
• Reinforcement touching the timber formwork without spacers to keep the concrete cover.
• Walls cast in widely separated stages without treating the joints between them.
• No water curing in the days after casting, especially in summer heat.
• Pipes installed after casting by breaking the wall instead of fixing sleeves during the pour.
• Starting waterproofing on a surface that is not clean or dry.

During the fill test

If the water level drops without use, or damp patches appear on the outer walls, this points to a leak. It must be fixed before backfilling, because reaching it afterwards means excavation and higher cost. Do not accept explanations such as the concrete will seal itself over time.

After commissioning

• Water with an unusual colour, taste or smell.
• Damp in the walls of the house or the boundary wall near the tank.
• Settlement of the ground over or around the tank.
• Cracks in or around the cover that let dust in.
• Peeling of the internal waterproofing when you open the tank.

Roof tanks

Watch for a roof tank that tilts or water collecting beneath it on the roof. This signals a leak from the connections or the tank itself and over time can affect the roof waterproofing and the top floor ceiling. Make sure its lid is tight and keeps out dust and birds.

What to do if you notice something

Photograph the issue, send it to the contractor in writing and ask for an inspection. If the tank is under warranty, the repair falls on the contractor according to the contract. If the tank is old, it needs an inspection to find the source of the problem before choosing a repair method.

At YAMIC we send you photos of every stage before it is covered, such as the steel before casting and the waterproofing before backfilling. This gives you a photo record of how the work was done. The earlier a defect is found, the easier and cheaper it is to fix.

Receiving a tank is not just seeing the cover closed and water reaching the house. A few simple steps make sure you receive a sound tank and that your rights are protected if a problem appears later.

Handover checklist

• Attend the fill test, or receive photos and a report of it showing a steady level throughout the observation period.
• Open the tank and see a clean, continuous internal waterproofing layer without bubbles or peeling.
• Confirm the vent with its mesh and the overflow pipe are in place.
• Test the pump and floats and see that the pump stops automatically when water runs low.
• Check the cover, its lock and its height above ground level.
• Confirm the area around the tank is backfilled, compacted and the floors reinstated as before.
• Have the tank washed and disinfected before the first fill of drinking water.

Documents to keep

• The construction contract with the approved specifications.
• Stage photos of the steel, casting and waterproofing before they were covered.
• A sketch showing the tank location and the routes of buried pipes and cables.
• The names of the waterproofing products used and their care instructions.
• The written warranty document.

What the warranty usually covers

The written warranty in the contract covers workmanship defects such as leaks through the walls or floor and waterproofing failure due to poor application. The contract sets the warranty period, how to report a problem and the response time. The warranty usually does not cover damage caused by digging or heavy loads over the tank, alterations by another party or unsuitable cleaning products.

After handover

Record the date of every cleaning and maintenance visit. This record helps you follow the tank's condition and shows you followed the care instructions if you need to claim under the warranty. If you notice any change in the water or its level, contact us directly and we will send the team to inspect.

At Yam Integrated Construction we explain the warranty terms before signing and hand you a complete file of documents with the tank. You can contact us with any question about your tank.

Receiving a repaired tank

For repaired tanks, ask for photos of the condition before repair and after each step. These show what was actually done, from removing the old waterproofing to treating cracks and steel and then applying the new system. A repaired tank should go through the same fill test as a new one.

Keep a digital copy of the photos and documents so they are not lost over time.

A villa tank differs from the tank of a residential building, a commercial complex or a school. The more users there are, the more continuity and easy maintenance without water interruption matter. At the same time, many owners of existing villas find their tank no longer meets their needs and look for a way to add capacity.

Tanks for larger projects

• Dividing the tank into chambers so one can be cleaned while the other works.
• Separating the drinking water tank from the fire or irrigation tank where the project requires it.
• A larger pump room with a standby pump that runs if the main one fails.
• Gauges or other means of checking the water level without opening the tank.
• A clear route for water trucks and a safe filling point away from pedestrian movement.

On these projects we work to the drawings approved by the consultant and send regular photo reports to the owner and the supervisor. We build project tanks in Riyadh, Jeddah, Dammam, Jubail, Al Ahsa, Buraidah and other cities across the Kingdom.

Adding capacity to an existing tank

Enlarging the concrete tank itself is difficult, because bonding new concrete to old under water pressure needs careful treatment and the joint may leak. So the solution is usually one of the following options.

Before you decide

The engineer first inspects the condition of the existing tank. If it has leaks or corroded steel, there is no point connecting it to a new tank before repairing it. If it is sound, it can stay in use with new capacity added beside it. We set out the options in the written quotation with the advantages of each and what it requires on site.

Scheduling work in occupied buildings

In occupied residential buildings and complexes, residents cannot be without water for long. So we arrange a temporary solution, such as a portable standby tank, before starting and tell residents when pressure may drop. Noisy works are carried out at times agreed with the owner so the building keeps running calmly.

In every case the supervising engineer remains responsible for the project from the site visit to handover.